i need some help here

[blucivicracer]

does anyone know the correct wiring changes needed to change from the base civics dp fuel injection to that of the si ? i already have the si intake manifold, throttle body, etc. but i need to know what wiring changes are needed to pull this off, and also if i would have to change my distributor to that of a si ?

[marked001]

you'll need the si distributor, as well as the injector resistor box. sorry, I dont know about the wiring.

[NC_Rex]

It's a pain in the but. I am just finishing up on it and it's taken 9 weeks because of delays. But overall, man it sucks if your a base model or DX model and want to upgrade to Si. I got most of it down though. I'll try and fill you guys in as soon as I get the timing situation figured out. I am running 5 degrees BTDC??? I think I retarded my Timing Belt by 1 tooth - not sure, askiing Honda Techs after Lunch ehre in a few.

[NC_Rex]

Yeah the Honda tech agreed - he had a rich burning, poorly idling car after a timing belt change once - having come to find out that he was also off by a tooth.

I finally got a new power inverter - 1000 Watts Nomimal - serious businness - so I could have power and lights when I work on the car at night.

But tonight I should be able to get everything done provided I get about 3 straight hours in on her! Varrrrooooom Baby! It sounds really sweet already with it running at 5 degrees - just kinda sickly.

I also have had evil thoughts of taking this D16Y8 engine I just picked up and sneaking it under the hood!! I've got the VTEC controller already - I just need to make sure I can snag an alternator from a Y5, Y6 or Y8 to match the pulley....or swap pulleys - which sucks. Hmmmm??? Ideas?

[NC_Rex]

Yes you have to get the following to make a D15B2 DX engine to MPFI - like the Si:

..Si manifold
....injectors and all sensors included, also mounting support bracket underneath and all hoses that comes off the block the intake manifold.
..Si Wiring - wiring from injectors all the way to injector resistor, injector resistor, mating Si distributor connector from Si harness.
..Si Distributor
..Si Intake Tube
..Si ECU
..Si Cam not required - DX cam is exactly the same.
..Extra two ECU pins from a black plug - cut off a black ECU connector from a junkyard - gut out two pins for splicing those additional two wires later down the road.

Well that's the hardware from the junkyard side of it.

Any other questions - just ask.

[N2HIFI]

i am currently doing a dx to si swapp (1.5 to 1.6 ) and im having wiring issues my color codes are different then whats givin on the hybrid website i also do nt know the ecu pin codes like which one is b10,b12 (supposed to be empty but mine both had wires in them) / c1,c2 (orange/white) also need the A3 and A7?
i have all the wiring in the engine caparment done except fo the cylinder position sensor? whats this and where is is at ..its not in my repair guide

also when looking at the motor from front on the right side of the injection unit below/behind the injectors there supposed to be somthing that screws in to the side of the unit and its missing and thers a empty hole not sure what goes there?

well any help would be gratefull

late chris

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"Dont argue with idiots because they will beat you down with experiance"

[NC_Rex]

The CYL sensor is blue/yellow and blue/green on the Si Distributor....you did notice that your were missing two pins on the new connector since there were two wires on the Si distributor on the other side connector.

Basically you send two wires down to the C1 and C2 C-plug connector (Black floorboard-most one)...there will be two wires here already....your old Cracnkshaft Position wires. The DX to Si conversion requires you to move these to a new pinslot - B10 and B12 slots in the B-connector (middle black).

You may find a Red-White wire in B12. This is an unknown wire...nobody I've talked to knows where it goes to. I just cut mine when I did the swap and left it wrapped.

Hope this helps.


i have all the wiring in the engine caparment done except fo the cylinder position sensor? whats this and where is is at ..its not in my repair guide
also when looking at the motor from front on the right side of the injection unit below/behind the injectors there supposed to be somthing that screws in to the side of the unit and its missing and thers a empty hole not sure what goes there?

well any help would be gratefull

late chris

[N2HIFI]

Ok first off thanks for the input andthe very valuable info.

See i didnt even think about the connector not having all the correct wires..im using the stockdx plug into the si dist. So ill just have to wire directly to the dist side of the plug.

Ok i do have a question about the injecto wires though..i know that you cut and run wires from a3/a7 but when i look at my chiltons it showes a7 going to the yel/blk wire on the resistor box..? But the DX to ZC wiring showes a7 going to inj #4 is this right.I was thinking that the wire from a4 would be used instead because in chiltons it showes this being inj#4 on si wiring?..am i wrong here??


well just let me know cause im dying to get this thing running. Nothing like looking at your baby sitting pretty but not being able to go drive it

thanks a bunch chris

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"Dont argue with idiots because they will beat you down with experiance"

[NC_Rex]

"See i didnt even think about the connector not having all the correct wires..im using the stockdx plug into the si dist. So ill just have to wire directly to the dist side of the plug."

Don;t do that....I'm gonna have to get on the slap-happy patrol for having seen people do stupid stuff like this........Now let me see if I got this straight....your permanently wiring in your distributor to the harness?

Do this instead - find a plug that looks like the mating Si Distributor Plug. I know the top right Engine Harness plug is exactly the same, and secondly the B18A Integra has these same plugs also.

"Ok i do have a question about the injecto wires though..i know that you cut and run wires from a3/a7 but when i look at my chiltons it showes a7 going to the yel/blk wire on the resistor box..? But the DX to ZC wiring showes a7 going to inj #4 is this right.I was thinking that the wire from a4 would be used instead because in chiltons it showes this being inj#4 on si wiring?..am i wrong here??"

Sounds like you said everything right.. Damn I jsut wrote a guy a very technical description about the injector circuitry. I'll try to write it again like I said last night:

The ECU acts like a switching box for the injectors...it has ultra fast microswitches that are nothing more then tranistor circuits biased closed to pass larger amounts of current byt the ECU processor.

Most people think the ECU sends the power to the injectors....when in fact it simply closes the switch for the power to pass through to a ground on the other sid eof the ECU.

This is the power Routing. Battery, through ignition Switch, through MPFI Fusing, through MPFI Main Relay - internally there are the Fuel Relay and Injector relay - injector relay turns on as soon as the ECU OK's it to show that the system is safe to run from the ECU itself - a short diagnostic test - this is when the ignition test engine check light goes off and you here the click - that's the relay closing allowing the injector circuitry to function......so the relay is now closed - power is available to the injector circuitry. Now the power passes from this out on the main relay to the injector resistor pack - which splits into four separate lines - each having it's own separate equal power resistor - which ups the voltage and drops the current properly for the injector to function correctly. With the resistor load, the voltage is sufficient to actuate the injector solenoids or whatever they are classified as - the wires from the injector resistor box to indivdual injectors are red/black....the power then passes down through the individual colored wires to the A1, A3, A5 and A7 pins slots A1=#1 and A7=#4 respecitvely in order.

Now if your trying to run the car and the Wiring is messed up, and your turning it over and it's not starting or attempting (called turning over), but it is cranking - the starter is, and you smell gass out the exhuast - really rich, then you have an ignition problem. basically you are grounding a signal and the ECU doesn't know it or passing a bad signal that the ECU cannot screen for by having swapped wires or misconnected.

Read this through, follow your wires, and get to understanding it. Don;t worry any further on the Injector Resistor to Main Relay side of the wiring - you don;t have to bother touching this - it's same same between all models.

If you need spare injector resistor boxes - the 90-93 Teg has our same one - and the 92-95 Prelude and I think the 90-93 Accord has it too, but the end connectors I beleive are different - but use the same ohmage injectors that we do!

Hope this helps, and ask away if you have any more questions.

[N2HIFI]

Ok i got that part ..ok then the injector wiring is done then.

Ok i have a question about the dist again. You say the dist should have a 7pin/wire connector and a seperate 2 pin connecto (blk/yellow and blue) (chiltons says a 8pin) on the SI dist. But my dist has a 5 pin connector and a 2 pin connector. So i think this is my poblem and why my dist dosnt have the blu/yel,blu/grn like everybody says should be there.

Does this sound right at all? because this is whats going on i beleive. The dist in the car is brand new and what the part shop ordered in for me but i think its wrong because we compared the part number from a 88 SI to a 91 SI and they are different so i had them order that one and should be in in 2days. Any thoughts on this?


Thanks again BIG time
chris

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"Dont argue with idiots because they will beat you down with experiance"